Terantak Amelia Cafe n' Chalet @ Perhentian Island

Welcome After less than an hour on a boat from the east coast of Malaysia, the laid-back atmosphere and the natural beauty of the Perhentian islands immediately transport you to a different world. The white sand is dotted with sun-worshipping holiday makers, some retreating to the shade for a glass of freshly squeezed juice. A group of scuba divers are boarding a boat to venture out into the turquoise waters and submerge themselves in the underwater wonderland. Later, as the sun sets, a quiet buzz of music and chatter fills the air, together with the thin wisp of smoke from the barbeque fire.

The Perhentian Islands are two islands named Pulau Perhentian Kecil (Small Perhentian Island) and Pulau Perhentian Besar (Large Perhentian Island). The Malay name Perhentian is translated as “place to stop” and this is exactly what these two islands were for traders travelling between Malaysia and Bangkok in years gone by. These islands are still a gorgeous place to stop and rest today, albeit for tourists disconnecting from the stress and routine of everyday life and not for weary seafaring traders.

The islands remain relatively untouched and the only permanent inhabitants live in a small fishing village on Perhentian Kecil. Apart from footpaths that cut through the jungle, there are no roads on the islands. The only way to get around is by walking through the jungle or taking a sea taxi. If you tread carefully, you may even encounter some of the islands’ shy wildlife on the way, such as monitor lizards, fruit bats, squirrels or even the elusive mouse deer. Simple chalets and some moderately luxurious resorts line the picturesque beaches along with restaurants, dive centres and boat operators advertising their services with hand-painted signs.

Perhaps it is the stretches of white beach or the crystal clear water and the superior scuba diving. Perhaps it is the untouched forests or the relaxed atmosphere and unspoiled charm. We like to think that is a little bit of all of this that makes the Perhentian Islands the perfect place to stop and take some time out.

 

Getting There

 

Amelia Cafe n' Chalet are located at the CORAL BAY, Small Perhentian island. The Perhentian Islands are located around 25km from Kuala Besut on the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia. The islands are reached by speedboat or slow boats from the Kuala Besut jetty, or by chartered boat from the nearby Redang and Lang Tengah Islands.

There is a RM 5 conservation charge per person for going to the island.

Remember that there are no ATMs or banks in Kuala Besut or on the Perhentian Islands. Visa and Mastercard are only accepted at a few resorts. The closest ATMS are in Jerteh.

Boat Services to the Perhentian Islands
Apart from chartered boat services that depart from nearby islands (Redang, Lang Tengah) all boats to the Perhentian Islands depart from Kuala Besut.

Speedboats cost RM 70 return (RM 40 one way) and depart according to demand, usually four to five times per day, starting at 07:00 in the morning. Boats will drop you off at the resort or beach of your choice and the trip takes 30-45 minutes.

If the sea is rough you can be assured of a bumpy ride and you may even get wet. You may need to disembark in shallow water if there is no jetty at your beach, so dress (and pack) accordingly.

Getting to Kuala Besut
Kuala Besut is 50km south of Kota Bharu and 110km north of Kuala Terengganu on the east coast of peninsular Malaysia in the state of Terengganu.

By plane

• The closest airports are in Kota Bharu and in Kuala Terengganu.
• Air Asia flies daily to Kota Bharu from Kuala Lumpur and Johor Bahru and to Kuala Terengganu from Kuala Lumpur.
• Malaysia Airlines flies daily to Kota Bharu and to Kuala Terengganu from Kuala Lumpur.
• Firefly flies daily to Kota Bharu from Penang and Kuala Lumpur (Subang airport).

By road – public transport
Apart from the Kuala Lumpur service that goes directly to Kuala Besut, most long distance buses to this region are bound for Kota Bharu but will drop you at Jerteh (around 15km from Kuala Besut) if you ask. From Jerteh you can easily get a taxi to Kuala Besut (RM 10-20), even if you arrive in the early hours of the morning as taxi drivers often wait for buses to arrive.

From Kuala Lumpur, Mahligai and Mutiara have coach services twice daily (morning and evening) to Kuala Besut. The trip takes 8-9 hours and costs around RM 50. The bus station is walking distance from the jetty.

From Singapore, Transnasional has an overnight business class service to Kota Bharu. Ask to be dropped off at Jerteh. The trip takes around 9 hours and costs SGD 45. You can board the same bus in Johor Bahru (around RM 50) or opt for the economy service (around RM 40).

From Penang, there are several bus services to Kota Bahru or Jerteh.

From Kuala Terengganu you can take any northbound local bus or coach service and ask to be dropped off at Jerteh..

From Kota Bharu there are direct local bus services or you can take a taxi.

Several travel agents and tour operators offer transfers (usually via air-conditioned minivan) between Kuala Besut and the Cameron Highlands, Taman Negara National Park or Kuala Lumpur. Costs are around RM 60-90 per person each way.

By road – self drive
From Kuala Lumpur take the east bound highway (East Coast Expressway) in the direction of Kuantan. From Kuantan, take the coastal road (highway 3) north, in the direction of Kuala Terengganu (follow signs along the way). From Kuala Terengganu, take either highway 3 or highway 14 to Jerteh and Kuala Besut. Travelling time should be 7-8 hours.

 

Things to see n' do

The Perhentian Islands are the ideal place to relax and forget about your cares and most people that visit here laze away their days in the sun. However, if you are tired of waiting for coconuts to drop, there are still some things that you can do to keep yourself occupied.

These islands have been gazetted as a marine park and as such littering, fishing and collecting of any marine life (whether dead or alive) is strictly prohibited. As it is a marine park, this also means that the rich diversity of aquatic life has been preserved and it is beautiful to experience.

Apart from walking, the only way to get around is by sea taxi. Expect to pay around RM 10-25 per person for 5-15 minute transfers.

Snorkelling
We provide snorkelling outings around the two islands, ranging anything from one and a half hours to a full day. Trips cost RM 35-50 per person, depending on the duration, stops and whether. It all including equipment.

Some of the popular spots for snorkelling are Shark Point, Teluk Pauh and Tanjung Basi. If you are lucky, a combination of these stops may mean that you see a turtle, some black tip reef sharks and an abundance of colourful coral all in one trip.

The sheer amounts of visitors and careless practices have resulted in damage to the coral and consequently the marine life around the islands. To ensure that you keep yourself safe and do your part to contribute to the conservation of these incredible ecosystems, keep the following in mind:

• Touching or standing on coral damages or even kills them and re-growth takes years
• Control your buoyancy carefully. Use a life jacket and only use fins if you are completely confident that you will not accidentally touch the coral.
• Do not litter. Some animals (like turtles) may mistake plastic bags for food and choke to death.
• Stay within the designated areas so that you do not cross boat paths and get hit
• Do not touch or disturb any marine life in any way. You may hurt them and some of them may hurt you. Keep your distance from Triggerfish as they may be aggressive, especially when guarding a nest
• Keep yourself protected from the sun

Scuba Diving

For a scuba diving, we have a nextdoor scuba diving shop where it easy to you to get it. there is a good instructor you can have, it was very happy, enjoy n more you can do it. for the cost, open scuba diving cos is between rm800-rm900 per person and rm70-rm100 for a enjoy diving. Scuba diving around the Perhentian Islands is a superb experience and many people visit here time and time again to explore the deep.

Some of the top spots are Tokong Laut (Temple of the Sea, also known as the Pinnacle) and the Sugar Wreck. Tokong Laut is a pointed rock protruding from the seabed, surrounded by all kinds of coral and home to numerous species of reef fish and other marine life. The Sugar Wreck is an eerie-looking sunken freight ship that lies at around 15-22m.

Marine life is in abundance here and apart from the many species of hard and soft coral that form the backbone of these ecosystems you can also expect to encounter turtles, several species of sharks, mackerel, jacks, moray eels, nudibranchs and various other reef fish.

There are numerous dive operators on both islands and there is hardly a beach that does not have at least two options for you to choose from for recreational dives or certification. Ensure that your dive centre is environmentally friendly and takes safety practices seriously.

If you enjoy exploring the underwater world, do your part to protect it. The golden rule, apart from never holding your breath, is to take only photographs and leave only bubbles! Below are some guidelines that every responsible diver must follow.

• Choose a dive operator that respects the environment and actively contributes to conservation efforts in the area.
• Never touch or step on coral. The slightest touch can harm them and some may hurt you.
• Prevent accidental contact with the reef or kicking up sediment by keeping a safe distance and practicing good fin and body control.
• Do not collect any “souvenirs” – living or dead - underwater, but do pick up recent rubbish
• Do not touch, chase, try to ride or otherwise harass any marine life. Feed and handle marine life only under expert guidance.
• Ensure that your dive boat does not anchor on the reef and make sure that all rubbish (especially light plastics) is carefully stowed away.

Jungle Trekking
Tropical forest covers the greater part of the Perhentian Islands and a few trails that twist through the greenery allow you to explore the diversity of plant life. Tread quietly and you may just meet a few of the islands’ animals along the way. Monitor lizards are in abundance, as are numerous species of insects and birds. If you are lucky, you may even spot a group of long-tailed macaques (a type of monkey). The elusive mousedeer is also said to inhabit the island, but these tiny animals are rarely seen.

Remember to bring insect repellent and plenty of drinking water.

 

Travel tips

The best time to visit
The monsoon season peaks between November and March every year. You can expect more rain and rough seas and most resorts are typically closed from end October through end-February. Peak season is between July and August and prices rise accordingly. During off-peak times, rates are negotiable. You may need to book well in advance during peak time and also for public holidays and weekends. Note that most budget resorts do not accept bookings and handle guests on a walk-in basis only.

Climate
Equatorial with fairly uniform temperatures year-round, ranging from 21ºC (70ºF) to 32ºC (90ºF). Humidity is high (85-95%). Annual rainfall varies from 2,000mm to 2,500mm and most rain can be expected between November and February.

Clothing
Very casual. There are no dress restrictions on the islands and light cotton clothing, t-shirts and shorts would be suitable. In some villages and rural areas, modest clothing is more appropriate. Topless sunbathing for women is not acceptable. Terengganu is an Islamic state and it is best to dress modestly when in doubt.

Perhentian Island Long Beach Self Snorkeling

The Perhentian Islands (Pulau Perhentian in Malay) lay approximately 10 nautical miles (19 km) offshore the coast of northeastern Malaysia in the state of Terengganu, approximately 40 miles (64 km) south of the Thai border. South Beach, Perhentian BesarThe two main islands are Perhentian Besar (“Big Perhentian”) and Perhentian Kecil (“Small Perhentian”). The small, uninhabited islands of Susu Dara (Virgin Milk), Serenggeh and Rawa lie off Kecil. The Perhentians belong to Pulau Redang National Marine Park, which means that fishing, collecting coral and littering are strictly prohibited. Like Besut, people here generally speak Kelantanese Malay. Both the islands have palm-fringed white coral sand beaches (that can be tough on the feet) and turquoise blue sea. One can have a number of activities on its beaches and forests. Scuba-diving, snorkeling, and swimming are the most popular tourist activities here. On most beaches, the water is shallow with lots of rays, cuttlefish and parrotfish. For diving, there are dozens of divesites around both main islands, as well as several off-shore sites. Apart from these, you could also enjoy activities like camping, canoeing, fishing, jungle trekking, and banana boat riding. As for accommodation, most of it can be found around both islands. Hotels are usually aimed at budget travelers. Summer 2007, 2 wind turbines have been installed, nevertheless the island’s electrical power is only available from 7.00pm to 7.00am. For some of the shop …

Diving in the Perhentian Islands

After days of eye problems keeping us above sea level, we were finally ready to take the plunge. After all, we had come to the Perhentians in part for the virgin reefs fringing the islands.

We dove with the in house dive shop at our bungalow, making it easy to roll out of bed and wade out to the dive boat. On our first diving day we headed out for a two tank trip, hitting two of the island’s most famous dive sites: Sugar Wreck and Terumbu Tiga, or T3. As we headed out my eyes were still a bit sensitive but I was determined to dive!

Sugar wreck was my first ever wreck dive and I was required to complete a PADI “Adventure Dive” in order to do it. The cynic in me says this was a ploy to get me to do my Advanced Open Water course, as it basically consisted of paying more money and pointing to the buoy line a few times throughout the dive. Descending down the line, I was awestruck by the amount of life. Nurse sharks, lionfish and barracuda lurked around the sunken ship ominously, and we swam through the swirling, inky evidence of squid or octopus.

Heading into the wreck, we swam towards an air pocket the divemaster had told us about beforehand. At the time, this was only my seventh ever dive, and my buoyancy control was lacking, to say the least. In my excitement I started to shoot up towards the air pocket, not seeing the metal beam directly in the path of my head. Luckily my dive buddies were a bit more keen than I, and Mark and the divemaster simultaneously yanked me away before any damage was done. Embarassing? Yes. Better than being med evaced off the island? Also yes. My shame evaporated quickly as I marveled at being able to breathe with no air tank, 50 feet under water.

Our next dive was to T3, a favorite site amongst divemasters for its swim-throughs, caves, and microlife known as nudibranches. This was a big day of firsts for me, and lacking any experience with swimthroughs I was so focused on getting through the tunnels and trying not to knock into everything and kill anything, that I have almost no other memories of the dive!

Showing off the island's dive sites

 

On one of our last days on the island, we headed out for our final dive and what would become one of our best memories of the trip. Tokong Laut, or Temple of the Sea, is the superstar of Perhentian Island diving. Its topography alone would be impressive, an undersea mountain emerging at the surface as only a small blip on the horizon, but below there was more untouched marine life than I have ever seen. I only regret that I didn’t have the diving experience to remember the names of what I was looking at or the camera skills to capture it! (All underwater photos in these posts are taken with the borrowed camera of a friend, and we really didn’t know how to use it very well.) What I can remember is Mark and I looking at each other underwater, seeing the excitement in each others eyes, and signing frantically to each other over the magic of it all. We were even lucky enough to see the resident three legged turtle that we had been briefed on! It was my first time seeing my blog’s namesake underwater, and it was love at first site. Even with my limited technical skills and inexperience, to this day this is one of the best dives of my life.

In front of the tip of the temple

Keeping with my recent video clip theme, I put together a short video of our boat ride back to the dock. My camera skills weren’t what they are today, but you can get an idea for the amazing topography of the Perhentians. At the end of the video we pull right up the bungalows we were staying in. Enjoy!

Pulau Perhentian Kecil and Besar

The Perhentian islands are surrounded with pristine waters and white sand beach. In fact, Pulau Perhentian is made up of two islands named Perhentian Kecil and Perhentian Besar. It is located at Terengganu in Malaysia and there are direct flights from Kuala Lumpur to Terengganu. From there you can take a bus to Kuala Besut and get on a ferry to Pulau Perhentian. Do note that there are no ATMs, banks and public phones. The prices on both islands vary from time to time because of the low and high season. Now’s the time to disconnect from the outside world.

Perhentian Besar seen from Perhentian Kecil

Perhentian Kecil

Kecil means small in Malay and this part of the island is known for backpackers. The vibe is pretty laid back and has a party atmosphere when dusk sets. The island is mostly frequented by backpackers from Europe, America and Australia. There are several cheap accommodations at Perhentian Kecil. There are several eateries and bars on the main beach, Pasir Panjang. It can get a little loud at night so best to stay somewhere that is secluded on Perhentian Kecil if you want some privacy. Although most accommodations are minutes away to the sea, the view is not as spectacular as Perhentian Besar’s.

Pasir Panjang (also called Long Beach) is the main beach and has a crescent shape coast ideal for swimming, snorkeling and diving. There are less corals on the furthest left side of the beach. Bring a book or a beach ball to enjoy the view of South China sea. Take a water taxi to Perhentian Besar if you want to explore the other island.

Perhentian Kecil has accommodations that is also part of a diving centre. The waters is known for diving and snorkeling therefore get an accommodation that comes along with water sports package. PADI diving course is also available at most diving centers. You can opt for jungle trekking as there are trails so you won’t get lost. Bring along an insect repellent and a bottle of water.

Seafood is the main cuisine found on Pulau Perhentian. Perhentian Kecil offers ala-carte eateries, mostly along Pasir Panjang. You can try local dishes such as Mee Goreng and quench your thirst with an ice cold lemon tea for less than MYR10. The prices at Perhentian Kecil is way cheaper than Perhentian Besar.

Perhentian Besar

Besar means big in Malay and it is upscale than Perhentian Kecil. Most of the resorts are located on the western part of the island. The other part of Perhentian Besar is undeveloped and surrounded with dense forests. If you are seeking quality time and privacy with your loved ones, book an accommodation that is away from the other resorts. The island is mostly frequented by families with children.

There are two beaches at Perhentian Besar named Teluk Pauh and Teluk Dalam. The beach at Teluk Pauh is a giant pool with crystal clear waters. Swimming and lazing on the beach are the perfect activities for an island holiday. Sign up for a diving or snorkeling package to try something different once in a life time. The other beach is Teluk Dalam and it is the longest beach on Pulau Perhentian. The waters are not as clear as the previous beach but the location is a little far off from the resorts. If you are lucky, the beach is empty and you can play a game of volleyball or lie on a sarong to get a tan.

All resorts on Perhentian Besar has an in-house restaurant and bar so no worries about food when you are there. Do note that there no ala-carte eateries here. If you want to try authentic local dish, get a taxi boat booking from the resort.

Pulau Perhentian suits anyone who is looking for new experience or a quiet solitude time. Pick Perhentian Kecil if want to chill and party and Perhentian Besar for privacy and peace. The best time to visit is in March and early September.